Monday 16 September 2013

Day 8 Cruz de Ferro 1504m

On my way to tackle the mountain range Montes de Leon I stopped off in Astorga to again have a look at the cathedral.  

As a backdrop to this town it was indeed stunning. I would really need to spend longer in such places but my heart was not in seeking the history but living the moment.
What was most sad was the collection of brain numbed alcoholics that frequented the grounds.  It was only 9.30 but they were already in oblivion. 


The mountain was calling.  

It turned out to be a gentle but long slow climb up through the olive trees and arid lands at the foothills.  The climb began to increase and the hairpin corners seemed to get steeper. But it was worth the climb. At one point I decided I had reached the top of the climb and as I descended I suddenly thought Blog! So yes good people I stopped turned around and climbed back up to the top point to give able to bring you this view

Breathtaking. 

Then came the second push up to Cruz de Ferro.   This is a very special place. A peregrine made monument close to the top of the mountain. It was actually featured in The Way 
You are asked to leave something of personal value at the cross to symbolise a shedding of sin and an unburdening of the soul.  I had to struggle to decide what to leave and was a little amused by the collection of inner tubes and has canisters attached to the pole. Then I realised what to leave.... No NOT my teddy bear!   But said bear did help by letting me leave his ribbon. After all he had been with me for three years too!


And so a small prayer at the post and I'm ready to descend.  This was going to be a challenge as I had never tried a steep descent on this bike with 13 kilos behind me.  

But as with all things on this Camino I was given what I needed in the guise if another fellow cyclist who had stopped to chat to a group of cyclists and help take pictures.  I mentioned the guide book suggestion of actually getting off and walking in one particularly bad spot that had claimed cyclists lives and he said he'd be happy to descend with me. Now my KVG friends will know I like a good descent but this was pushing my comfort zone.  


It was indeed very steep as we descended down 1000 meters over 10km. I was pleased it was dry and sunny and I didn't look over the edge but with experience from the Alps I was on my drops and feathering my breaks and my leg was firm on the outside pedal on the hairpins. (So glad I'd trained in he Alps!)

I did get off at the cobbled, drain scored stretch as I had promised myself I would.  It was only for 100m through the village of El Aceba and I was in no rush.  My companion stayed with me all the way down and when we finally took time to draw breath and say hello he introduced himself as Jaques.  How apt!  (Chemin St Jaques) 

We shared the road for another 30km before saying Buen Camino as I headed for a campsite and he searched for a room. 

So why not an Alberge? Because I do really like my cocoon of a sleeping bag and the possibility of the odd hedgehog poking in his nose to say hello.  I like the solitude and the rustle of the trees in the wind.  It just seems that this is what I want from my Camino.

So off to sleep as I have another long climb tomorrow.  I think the expression is Maniana but don't ask me to spell it !

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