Day 3 in more detail

Day three Vouvray to Poitiers.

This was always going to be a difficult day.  The idea of 88 miles after such a long journey the day before did not inspire me to jump out of bed with glee. The saving of the day was the idea that at least I marginally knew the area and would enjoy seeing it from the saddle.

Setting off after breakfast I had one important stop to make. The pilgrim routes from Chartres and Orleans converge just outside if the town and I wanted to stand on this spiritual crossroads.  There was no major tribute or plaque as I had expected but at least I found the sign post.

Cycling through Tours was a joy.  I was now into the stride of the day and had discovered that the cycle paths and my Garmin were both on my side.  Pulling up to a set of lights I was approached by an elderly gentleman who wanted to know about my travelling companion sat on the back. (one teddy bear called whistful!!)  He was so enthusiastic about my trip that we exchanged details so as to meet with respective families later in the holiday.  He apparently had also cycled the Chemins at the age of 15 and our conversation had brought it all back.  Daniel expressed his desire to talk in English with intelligent people!! When I looked around for said people, he laughed.  So we shall hopefully catch a cafe later in the hols.  If you have ever read the Celestine prophecy you will know that such chance encounters have to be followed through as there are no such things as chance meetings.

Tours is a beautiful city if you look past the urban area to the  old town. Apparently heavily bombed in the war a great deal of effort was put into rebuilding the town as it had been with the cathedral a spectacular centre piece.

I found a cycle path that followed La Loire out of the city which was a perfect way to exit the town but with one small problem.  In deciding to build a new office the planners had neglected to consider the path so the whole route was barricaded off. This would have stopped most people but I was on a mission.  Carrying my bike over a storm drain and up round the fence I found a gap in the sheeting.  As I scrunched down to clamber through I spied something small and shiny in front of me. A shell.  I might be trespassing but was undoubtably on the right path. (SIGN 5) i squeezed through.  As I stood upright and brushed myself down  I came face to face with the site manger.  Ever a polite Velo girl I apologised 'Desolee!' but commented that my GPS route was straight through.  He nodded me on not because he was on my side but probably because it was easier than having to grapplep with my attempt at a French explanation.

The rest of the morning my journey took me through beautiful sunflower fields and even included a few 'Anna inspired' routes. Basically shortcuts across the fields and whilst not the best for the carbon brigade do able for my composite steed. Sometimes the simpler the track the more it has to offer.  By using these odd 'off road' routes I not only saved time but I saw the wilder parts of the countryside.

I was beginning to flag and in need of a break. L'isle Bouchard was a perfect stop with it's small brasserie set on an island in Le Loire.    This was my wall moment and one that I was glad to climb over.  My family told me later that they thought me most odd to opt for the extra 45 miles to Poitiers rather than the 5 miles to our French cottage.  I can't tell you how hard I had to work to keep peddling.  The reward was obvious. Once out of Richelieu where I stopped for a refreshing fountain spray the road opened up to some of the best views around.

I arrived in Poitiers at 8.00 that night.  As I rounded the last few bends to the Notre Dame the heavens opened. Why now after three days did it decide to pour?  I was however undaunted and I accosted a young woman to share the rain with me for the sake of this final picture.  It would have taken more than rain to dampen this moment.

J'arrive.

Day 2 in more detail.

Day two Chartres to Vouvray.  This was to be the longest section of my journey. 106 miles in total.  The weather was good and not too hot and I was rested after my trip out of Paris the day before.

I did take time out to visit the cathedral and to light a candle for a good friend. Even though I knew my day was going to be tight time wise this was part of the trip and in many ways to just head out without stopping off would have belittled my whole reason for travelling the Chemin.

The journey started well and I happily covered the miles without too many hills or difficulties. Whilst the day before had been littered with places of interest today was to be a view of the large arable landscape of the Loire's Landes.

Whilst taking part in the Wessex 200 one of the organisers mentioned having completed this part of the journey. She had not enjoyed the flat landscape preferring the hillier aspect of the Le Puy Chemin. For me I was ecstatic. Not because of the lack of hills but having been brought up on the moorlands of the Pennines, space is what makes my heart sing.  So to come into such a rich expanse of a landscape I felt quite at home.

I was very aware of being a solitary traveller at this point and whilst if I thought about it too hard it might freak me out, I settled into a comfortable tempo and enjoyed every moment.

Vendome provided some respite as it offered up a pot of tea and a croque Monsieur.  I marvelled at the rococo facade of the towns eglise but time was now becoming critical. I worked out that I had forty miles to go and it was now around five o'clock.

Heading out into the countryside once more I was pretty relaxed. Just as well considering what was to happen next.  Because I had originally intended to visit a town off route and then rejoin my path I had forgotten to make a note of it and it was still entered in on my Garmins route.

I found myself on top of a plateau in a region called Le Temple. I swear that this area was a cross of lay lines as my usually very good directional senses became very unhinged. I cycled the same circle of road at least three times from three different angles. If it hadn't been for the fact that the hill in the middle was such a bitch to get up I could have easily been caught in this loop for many hours.  As it was I lost an hour. I gave up on the Garmin pulled out my iPhone and began to untangle the mess. I had a paper map as well so no huge sweat. This had to be the scariest moment for me. This was when i realised the true meaning of solo.  I pulled myself together and made a decision to cycle in opposite direction to my Garmins advice. We fell out a bit at this point. I knew I needed to now cover miles and fast.  It was nearly 7.00pm and I had 30 miles to go. I opted for the direct if slightly busier roads and thanked every roman designer who had had a hand in building them. They were straight and direct. My big chainset came into it's own as I cranked up the pace.

It was dark as I covered the last ten miles. This was no Paris 24 this was just little old me and my cat eye lights.  But I held my nerve and cycled on. My iPhone was pinging with texts from Charles to check I was ok but I didn't even stop to answer I was head down and peddling hard.

I made it to Vouvray for 10.15. Exhausted was not quite the word I would have used and whilst I had hoped for a long restorative bath a shower had to suffice. The owner however took pity on me and opened up the kitchen so as I could have a cup of tea or two or three!!  

I slept heavy and sound that night!!  On reflection I might have been too ambitious in the miles to ride but had I not been Bermuda Triangled  I'm sure all would have been well. And anyway I got there in the end.

Should I stay or should I go now.... If I stay there will be trouble... (Clash song hum along)

There was a moment today when I nearly stopped for the night just outside of L'ile Bouchard 45 miles into the day.  I thought I can finish this tomorrow.  True I coud have but I knew deep in my heart I would have felt I had not done my pilgrimage.  I also thought that perhaps this was part of it the temptation to give up.  So I wrestled with the idea over a cup of tea and a jolly good ham salad.  I made the call to Charles, would he like to meet in a village 10 miles down the road.  I figured then I wouldn't feel so bad.

As I set off my heart was lighter and I decided I could sleep well and finish in the morning. Besides I'd have more time to look at the church.

When I arrived at the village faster and fresher than I expected I decided to change my plan. It was only another 28 miles so I cancelled Charles and set off.

The thing about this solitary pursuit is you can only rely on your self to talk yourself out of those bad decisions.

So, my knees ache, my bottom is numb but I will sleep in peace tonight.  And just for the record I couldn't have let you all down now could I. I think even Garmin would have been a tad dejected!

When I arrived at Notre Dame in Poitiers I nearly burst into tears.  This has been a long haul and one I won't forget.  I will add more after some rest so keep watch.

Oh and the last five minutes of the whole three days the heavens opened!  Qu'elle suprise!!!

Chartres, cest formidable!

So yesterday was a LONG day.
In the morning I took the time to visit Chartres cathedral. If you have never visited this place then put it on your bucket list.   It was so quiet when I arrived that I pretty
Much had the place to myself.  The only sad part was the continued alterations have obscured the bottom of the main window.  This is the place in the Davinci code  which draws on the symbolism of the labyrinth  which I might point out is a simple form of a pilgrimage. Apparently walking a labyrinth brings you to the centre of yourself.  I took the short cut and went straight for the middle as time was precious.

I also bought a simple St Christopher for my journey. I thought that would be prudent.

On leaving the cathedral a beggar was stood hand outstretched. Normally I dont bend to that pressure but the fact that he was using a scallop shell as his begging bowl did it and he gained financially from my spiritual quest!! (SIGN NO 4)

How to achieve 18MPH. Over 20 miles on your bike!!

Simples. All you have to do is tell your Garmin that you might like to visit a church just a bit off your route. Then you tell it that you are going to come back the same way to join your route. Then what the clincher is, you make sure you have a bloody steep hill on the way. So how does this get you 18mph? You find yourself going around in a circle and when you come to the hill for the third time you get off and scream at your Garmin (now let's not admit that you put it in in the first ace and poor Garmin was not having a good day either and at least you get to eat a gel!!). So the outcome? You have 20 miles to cover in less than two hours!! Not a problem I hear you say! True, but when it's 9.00 pm at night in the middle of France's very own Bermuda triangle trust me you hit 18 mph easily. Oh and this is after you have totted up 95 miles!

But the really sad part is? You had a great time.

I have piccies but please be patient as I'm not sure on the French blogger site so hope to sort it soon.

Did I mention the head wind? GO TO SLEEP SHEILA.

Two things to remember when travelling on France!

Monday is a half closed day and when you plot these gamin routes to take in the off the beaten track route be prepared when you do find a remote village it's generally closed!!

Sitting in a cafe for my second tea of the day. This is my lunchtime! Thank goodness I pinched a croissant or two from the breakfast buffet.

70 miles done so not doing too badly.

Will post a longer message later today. Needless to say I'm peddling proud.

I'm going on a bear hunt!!

I can't go over it I can't go through it and I can't go round it. The Tour has blocked all the roads across the Seine and I can't swim strapped to my bike. Well I could but it would be a downward route! I did think about making a run for it but decided that it would be my luck to be caught on tv wearing club colours and being arrested. Mind you these young gendarmes cur quite a pose. Not that they took a blind bit of notice when I pleaded to go across. DESOLE!!

Whilst trying to find a way across would you beloved that I found another KVG girl instead!!! Most bizarre to suddenly be shouted at just in front of Notre Dame. So everyone Elizabeth made it to Paris in style and had a blast. (photo to follow)

We didn't chat for long as I had begun to worry about the delay. But once I found a cunning route under the Louvre bridge I was happy.

Discovered that this might end up a sight seeing pilgrimage when I sailed past the Eiffel Tower. Then I had the joy of a rather grand hill up out of Paris toasted Versailles. Those hill reps have helped Bee!! Managed the hill with my Panniers straining behind me.

It was a bit worrying to see that I had wasted so much time but once I got the tempo up I could cover the miles. It was beautiful scenery and the cycle paths are a dream.

I finally made it to Chartres for 9.15pm just in time go find a cafe for two pots of tea, onion soup and an omelette. I am pooped but happy and now need to sleep. I am hoping for an early start as I have a 100 ahead tomorrow.

Hope to add piccies soon. Bon Nuit mes amies She

Bon Vacances!!!

Well after an early start and a panic that even travelling light weighs a ton I've made it to Calais and am on the TGV. Norman provided an excellent service sous le manche and even dropped me at Frethuan. Made me laugh when he went to long lengths to explain his latest gastro delight. Scallops in mushroom sauce served on their shells!!! some one up there likes me!!! Have to say peeps, bit bloody nervous!!! Catch you later. She

Preparing to go it alone.

The last few weeks have been fraught with activity as I prepare to embark on my pilgrimage Stage 2, Paris to Poiters.  I have decided to do this stage solo which as a concept in itself has raised a degree of concern.  The strange thing is that the people that show the least concern are indeed my family.  My husband Charles has never doubted my decision and in many respects there seems to be a glimmer of pride or is it just a wry smile at the obstinate determination that he has had to put up with and come to expect from his wife these past 25 years.  My children Harriet and Hugo think its amazing...  and apart from fighting over who gets my seat in the car on their own journey down through France, they seem pretty relaxed about it.   As if this is a normal day in the life of Sheila Woollam.

Wessex 200K with Anna and Bill, Hastings 43 up and up and up again with Sarah and Essex 75 Orchid (wet!) ride with Lorri.

When I mention what I am contemplating to others, the immediate response is often angst and fear.  I can see them thinking of the punctures, accidents and the sheer distance to cover on a bike.  But what I see, is the freedom to set my own pace, to tackle the hills the best I know how and the freedom to just meditate to the tempo of my bike.  I see the joy of discovering the silence between religious stop overs and the idea of just pitching up under my own steam.  It is just too good to resist.  On the face of fellow KVG riders I see admiration and envy.  Getting away for three days of cycling is a KVG dream for many. 

In preparation over the last five weeks I have cycled to Hasting for fish and chips, tackled 200km around Salisbury plain, a 75 miles around Essex and finished with the last big trip of 100 miles to Cambridge.  I am at the stage of having done quiet a lot, worrying about not having done enough and discovering there's no time to do anymore.  So I guess I am ready.  I have had my bike cleaned and preened by Jack and I am confident in how to change a puncture, tackle the odd mechanical and navigate my route.  I have hotels booked, trains are ready and all I have to do is pack my bags and saddle up.

I plan to take three days for this stage of 250 miles.  Paris to Chartres, Chartres to Vouvray and Vouvray to Poiters.  I may stop off for an extra night in Chatellerault, but we will have to see how I get on.  So from tonight, my blog will go live.  I will add to it as I can and with the best piccies my phone will allow.

So stay with me peeps and enjoy the ride.  Oh and I have my shell ready to pin on the back of my bike just to let the rest of France know that a Kent Velo Girl is on a pilgrimage.

Tonbridge to Paris: Stage 1

Having cycled for all of nine months and completed a 50 mile training course, a four day intensive training camp and a last minute 100 mile ride round Romney marsh, a trip to Paris seemed to me the perfect Pilgrimage Stage 1.  It took a some courage for me to stand up and ask to be counted when a last minute place became available (I owe you Naomi!!) to ride with the team.  When leader Bee agreed to my taking part, it was on the condition that I achieved my 100 miles. I upped my training in line with the rest of the girls, learned at least three verses of Lady Gaga's  "Bad Romance" and was supported by Anna in a 100 mile ride around Romney. I could do no more and I was so unbelievably happy...  well, up to the point the panic set in that is. Questions and doubt kept sneaking in. Was I ready to do this ride, could I cycle for 250+ miles over three days  and would my simple, aluminum framed, triple cassette, entry level bike get me from Tonbridge to the Arc de Triomphe...

Hell yes!!! I was determined to give it my best and so I became one of the 27 KVG girls (including a few Boys) to set off on the three day ride.

Day one involved a speedy ride down to Dover in time for the ferry including the ascent of Dover Hill.  But  probably due to the added adrenalin of the coming trip and all the extra training we had put in, it was a very different hill this time!  I still swore at the top and grunted loads... but it was very achievable. The ferry across the channel provided the team with a little respite before we set off into a horrendous head on wind for the long ride from Calais to Boulogne over the Caps.  Even Lady Gaga kept quiet on this stint, there was no spare air to sing!!!

Day two was a joy.  We happily banded together to cover the 125ish miles from Boulogne  to Abberville.  The sun shone, the road was flat and the mood was fantastic.  With our support team Tony and Cass feeding us superbly every thirty or so miles the mood was boyant.  Ok it wasn't a breeze, it was tiring, but we all managed it without too much of a sweat.  Yes we were glad to fall into a warm bath... and then eat... and eat.... and eat.  Well maybe not that much, but we did EAT!

Day three came too soon for me!  I was just breaking into my stride when i realised that actually this was the last 66 miles.  Mixed emotions.  I wanted this road trip to last forever, I wanted to be chatting to my cycle buddies non stop... I wanted to see France from the saddle.  But I had to be content with seeing Paris grow in the distance and to realise that this was indeed a big event.  We had all worked so hard and as we began our ascent up the Champs de Lysee...  my heart was about to break.  I didn't know whether I was going to laugh or cry.  I was just so proud of myself.... and so happy to be there.  As we began our circuit of the Arc de Triomphe my face ached from grinning.  We had done it... stage one!

Although traditionally a solitary experience of reflection and inner contemplation, this pilgrimage was slightly different and solitary was not an option, well not with my good friend Lorri as my roomie!!.  I'm going to dedicate this paragraph to my roomie and to team Quartz.!! That was our nickname for the seven of us because just like a piece of quartz we were always cutting it fine!  This band of happy cyclists, Anna, Valerie, Lorri, Ian, (me!!) Pat and Jo had stuck together and supported each other throughout the three days. 

We were visited by other members of he crew from time to time, and yes there were odd moments of tension, but very few... and usually when the GPS and maps just gave everyone a headache and the hotel seemed miles away!  But when you have spent three days in the saddle staring at each others arse 24/7, you can't help but bond.  So thank you team Quartz!!  And Lorri... a special thank you for making the nights especially amusing...  I haven't laughed so much in years!!!  But people? if you don't know Lorri, this joke will be lost on you but take it from me, this "roomie" was a gem!

The next day as I wandered around the streets of Paris I was indeed tired but happy.  The rest of the crew were in a similar space as silence replaced the laughter as each and everyone of us prepared for the trip home.  

Whilst walking along in silent contemplation, I began to ask myself if this really was the beginning of my pilgrimage, had I really found my path?  Trust me this was not a set up, and I am not making this bit up for effect... but as i rounded the corner a few moments later this is what I found and I could have cried with joy. 

 This was indeed my Chemin St Jaques!!  (Sign No 3)

KVG.... my lead out team!!

Turning up to day one of the 'introductory course' on a new road bike, (grey and black... but still awesome), cleated in and having only ridden seven miles in an hour was I thought pretty good going and I was never made to feel otherwise.  In fact, under the careful eye and compassionate coaching of Bee, my legs ached, my lungs complained but my heart sang....  if this was cycling, I wanted more.

One of the best pieces of advice given...   if you want to get cycle fit you can do it two ways.... cycle once a week for nine weeks or three times a week for three... your choice.  So I joined in with KVG rides as often as I could over those early days.   The cycling was exhilarating if a tad labored to begin with.  But with the goal of the Chemin St Jacques tucked away close to my pounding, oxygen starved heart... I stuck with it. The Autumn sun gave way to the snow and ice of winter but still I was out on (or indeed off!) my bike whatever the conditions.

What I hadn't planned when I started this malarkey was the camaraderie.  There are good friends to be made in a group like this, just ask Mark Cavendish....  he knows what it means to have a lead out man and be part of a team.  KVG kindly introduced me to mine with most of my progress made with the help and encouragement of the Hatties, Sarahs, Valeries, Lorries, Lindas, Carolines, Sophies, Helens, Jos, Janes, Julies, Cass, Katrinas, Paulas and Naomis of the group.  But the coaches? Ahh.... the coaches. The Bees, Claires and Annas of the world have a special place in my lead out team....  they have inspired me all the way to the foot of Dover hill, led me up and over it and watched me sail into the distance as I began to train in preparation for my to ride to Paris.

This was to be my Stage one....  Tonbridge to Paris in three days...  Yee Haaaaa  bring it on!

In the beginning there was a shell.....

It all started a year ago. Wandering through the french town of Chatellerault, I looked down to my feet to find a small brass plaque embedded in the cobbles. It was a simple shell. No words, nothing... Commenting to myself on the bizarre placement of such a feature I wandered off in search of 'une tasse de the'.   A few days later after visiting a church, a shrine for Jean D'arc enthusiasts, I was greeted by a long string of twinkling scallop shells draped across a notice board. Intrigued and forever on the hunt for the bizarre, I wandered over to find out what was with these shells.... and there it was.(Sign No. 1)

It turns out the scallop shell is a symbolic metaphor. The grooves in the shell, which come together at a single point, represent the various routes pilgrims traveled, eventually arriving at a single destination: the tomb of James, in Santiago de Compostela.  I had just been introduced to the Chemin St Jaques (Way of Saint James, el Camino de Santiago) a pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where legend has it that the remains of the apostle, Saint James the Great, are buried.

The Chemin St Jaques has existed for over a thousand years. It was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during medieval times Apparently pilgrims would set off from their homes at the 'right' moment to make this self directed pilgrimage taking anywhere from  weeks to months to complete the way, depending on the starting point.

"WOW... imagine taking the time out of life to make such a pilgrimage" said the little voice in my head...  Oh yeah!! like I have three weeks to walk through France?  "No..." the voice answered, "you cant walk it, but you could cycle it....?!!"  Shaking my head I took stock of the facts... I didn't have a bike, I hadn't cycled for over thirty years and exercise was limited to walking my dog....  I laughed to myself, hushed the voice and continued with my holiday.

When I got back to Kent, I was home all of three days when I 'found' myself in Everndens bike shop in Paddock Wood...  and there it was,  a steed...  a beautiful, awesome, white and shiny road bike!! I looked at the price tag... Damn, that was SO not happening and I walked out.  But a few days later I was back...  I just had to have another look!  A young sales man came over to talk to me about the bikes and when I commented on my fear of such a  bike just sitting in the shed after a few 'outings', the young man told me of an all girls cycle club, the Kent Velo Girls (click KVG for more info!!) As soon as I was home I picked up the phone... "Hello Kent Velo Girls....? I'd like to buy a bike but I think I might need some help......."(Sign No. 2)