Wednesday 30 July 2014

Full turn homeward

I had hoped to head to Holmavick as there was a museum of socery and witchcraft that had taken my fancy. I set out along the road and turned into the road that was to take me over the mountain to the village.  There was such a string wind that I was literally stopped in my tracks.  A huge sign was showing the temperature as 11deg and the wind spew was in RED at 16.  I guess that's knots??? Whichever it looked like this was not going to happen.  I smoked to myself that perhaps the dark forces didn't want a little witch like me poking around.  I had to think about it though!!

So I now turn the bars to face back towards Rekjavik. This is not easy to do as I'm loathe to stop this exploration of such a magnificent land.  

I'm given the option a 20km trek overland with the wind behind me towards the next campsite or a 80km round the coast on a track.  Well it was always going th be that one wasn't it.  

It's amazing how we can divert ourselves away from that return to the airport.  I know I have 4 days left but there is something so poignant about deciding the furthest point has been reached and it time to stop. 

But today's jaunt was so peaceful.  I stopped my bike at one spot and realised I could hear no other sounds but the odd seagull. Even the wind had abated. Silence. It's something we forget exists. 
All was going well until I turned the corner back into an increased headwind.  It had grown strong.  Another 40km to go.  I had hoped for a hot pot soak but that had gone out of the window.  By the time I reache the campsite it was too late and I was too tired.  Luckily the only pizzeria in the village was open so after a vey fast tent build off I went. Good hot meal makes all the difference. 

The night was windy beyond wind. I am pleased to say Wistful and I slept like logs and was only vaguely aware if the gales buffering the tent.  The campsite was such that I actually slept with my bike too. It's amazing what you can scrunch in to a small tent! 

On another note, Wistful has taken a shine to a new garment for her wardrobe but I've told her that Auntie Nicola is going to run one up for her when we get home!! 


I am taking a bus today across the inner land. It has little to offer to see per se but my legs need a rest and I have cunning plans for the morrow. 



Bike of the Mountain

It's not often I give myself Kudos but for today's ride I shall give myself some.  So why go to Iceland, and what was I hoping to find? Today I found a part of me that I haven't seen for quite some time and even I was in awe. The sheer grit and determination in facing adversity and knowing it was down to me alone to come through the other side. This was not about joy, this was too base chakra, this was the Heros journey and it was all of my own doing. 

I set out from one campsite heading for the other.  This was a ride of 120km and would take me along the coast and over a couple of charted hills.  I thought to myself ahhh this is a 6 hour ride no probs. maybe 7 if the winds against me. 

It was and so was the road surface, a loose surface of chippings, gravel and ash. Oh and did I mention that the hills numbered over 4 and were all over 8% and lasted on one occasion 11km.  Ahhhh. That will be why all the cars about 30 in total that passed me were giving me huge thumbs up and cheering me on.  I needed it. 


At one stage on a 15% kick my bike stopped going forwards and I didn't cleat out in time.  Wallop.  At least there was no one but me to laugh at myself.  Strangely I wasn't laughing.  I relented the 500 meters and pushed.  I didn't push much more than this as I was determined to finish what I started. 

There was however nothing between the campsites, I mean nothing. So the only way out if I couldn't make it was back to the beginning and that was not an option. I knew this was the case so had sort of prepared for the solitary ride, but even I was surprised by the ascent.  Given my pack load and the road surface I deserved my Kudos.  There were no points, no PBs, no queens of the mountain,  just brute force and determination. But I was not alone, at one moment that wasn't particularly optimistic I looked up to see that the Universe had conspired to send me my very own, "you are almost there" banner! What a blissful moment of spirit and joy.  

When I eventually arrived at the other campsite 9 hours later even the receptionist was agog. So much so he gave me an extra cup of tea on the house. As with all thing like this all I can say is "Bloody Marvellous".

At this point I'd like to thank my trusty bike. I would never have completed today on any other bike I can assure you. The 15% long descents on loose gravel confirmed my choice of disc brakes.  The 35mm tyres, cyclocross, sang across the ash, and if there was ever a moment of hesitation it was operator error not the bike. Thank you my beautiful, trusty steed and thank you Shand Cycles for building my Stoater. 

Good day bad day

I arrive in what can only be described as a fantastic quiet picturesque campsite. I'm in heaven.  Only me and my tent and another in the whole place. The site overlooks a picturesque bay and I think yes this is perfect.  

I'd taken the opportunity of breakfast on the ferry so no need to cook I could have the day off.    

As it was Sunday I thought if have a bath!  And the view from the bathroom was worth the walk.  

Hopefully you can now understand my obsession with geothermal pools. This has to have been the best. I lounged for at least an hour. 

Sadly on returning from the pool I find my travel charger and Pebble has been pinched. This was not a numpty moment as I had left it charging for the days travel.  But at least my phone and Garmin were all safe.  It was a sad making moment as I had placed trust in my fellow travellers and I hate the thought of a Burglar Bill roaming free. I know maybe it's me that needs to learn to lock everything up and not trust, but you know what? I'd rather not bother if that's the only way we can exist. 

Ah well.  So I got on my bike had a ride ranted a little and came back feeling a lot better. So if iv'e been a bit quiet these last few days it's because I haven't been able to charge this phone and I need to save my battery for emergencies. 


Hopefully by the time you read this all will be well with the world in all manner of things. 

Goodbye Snaefellsnes

Befuddled of Brenchley here has decided to hop on a ferry... Cheat cheat cheat! Well as in the great bear hunt, I can't go over, under or around, I have to go through.  Not being a strong swimmer with a bike attached (and Wistful can't swim so blame the bear!)  I have opted for the civilised route. 


So I leave the peninsula behind as I head further north, (what not further north!) to the western islands.  

And what may I ask is the plan? Another good question!  This trip has taught me the element of sheer adventure that technology and gizmos can dampen.  I'm using a Garmin but only to record the route and mileage as I gave up routing on day one. 



The outcome is that I sit at night and pour over my maps drooling with excitement. Which makes a change from the digestive-biscuit-lava flow that normally accompanies my evening musings. 

I was very unsure as to make my way back inland and turn south towards Rekjavik or push on further.  As this is only Sunday the first option felt like turning the ship round and heading for home. Not yet.. Not yet!

I would have liked to touch the Arctic  Circle but I'd miss my flight and that would never do. I am however making an executive decision to push north and then turn east along the shore and finally turn south once I hit the mainland again. If I'm running short I can simply catch a bus down the N1.

 What could be simpler. Well it does involve a secondary road and several steep hills that look tough but I can't let the thought of those get in the way of my journey. So that's the plan.  Everyone on board? Good. Then let's continue. 

Sunday 27 July 2014

Day 5 on the road


The corner of the peninsula has been turned and indeed I'm heading east along the northern shore. 

Strangely it was good to get out of the shadow of the mountain, a bit of a melancholic mood had descended but as soon as I had left my mood lightened. 

I discovered an information plaque shortly after that informed me that the area where I had stayed was the home of Iceland's first recorded serial killer. Hmmm that will do it then! 


I have the chance to see the Glacier from the other side and it does look impressive. Glad I didn't 'do the tour!' 


The road involved some rather Pyrenean hills for me today. But we coped. I was concerned I'd miss my triple chainset but pleased to say all was fine. A tad slow but I'm carrying a whole other me too so I shouldn't complain. 

I hear it's very hot at home! I would like to see some sunshine. Believe me I'm not complaining but it would be great to see how the landscape changes with sunshine and I have some washing that has remained wet for the last three days! 

Perhaps this evenings sunset bodes well!

So I'm not sure what to do tomorrow as I am planning a ferry trip across to the western islands. There is the option to stop at an island! But I may just go straight across. I will see how the mood takes me in the morning. 
I am hoping to show some of the gorgeous houses from around here, but just as I started to take the photos the battery dies. Typical. 

But all in all a good days cycling and a weary traveller is happily tucked up in her sleeping bag.
I shall leave you with Fish Pic no 3.

Saturday 26 July 2014

Snaefellsjokkull

I won't attempt to pronounce this one but just to say that I am at the centre point of my journey.  This is my first eerie glimpse of this mountain. 
Apparently this is where all the lay lines converge from around the globe.  There are other such places, Glastonbury etc but this one appears to be special.  
It certainly lives up to its brooding nature and I get a vague uneasy feeling as I draw close.  Not a surprise that I find out that Tolkien was fascinated by the stories found in the Icelandic Sagas. 

Did you know that the Icelandic Sagas were the first books ever written in native tongue telling a story rather than verse? They date back to 12th century. 

The statue is a memorial to a young man who died of exposure on the mountain pass over to the other side of the island in 1929.  It pays homage to the spirit of Bardur who mythically gave his life by jumping into the crater and was turned into the great spirit who watches over the area.  

  
Can you see any elves? I must admit when your cycling through these lava fields you do get the sense of being watched! And my bike started to make squeaking noises... So I asked the elves to stop messing with me bike... Sorted :-)

Jukes Verne plays an important part here too.  Apparently he used the glacier at the top for his background to Journey to The Centre of The World.  

So I find the campsite and settle in. The cliffs to the shore a fee hundred meters away are home to many birds and the noise is amazing. They don't go to sleep either it seems.  I'm really looking forward to seeing a puffin.  But that's later on my journey. I hope!

Friday 25 July 2014

Land of the little people

I woke this morning to torrential rain. Not the sort you would want to cycle in.  However I had a strong feeling that I wanted to get out of the campsite as another night would have been a killer. 

So I began to pack up my tent from the inside out.  I am driven by the promise of a cave of little people and the land of elves.  Why stay it's just a bit of water right? Ok a lot of water!

Tent packed inside so all I have to do is get out and pack the actual tent.  I'm clad in total water riding gear (thank you Sarah, the leg warmers are amazing :-) ). I poke my head out of the door and the rain stops. I kid you not!  It just stops. 

A quick thanks to the Universe and off I go, fastest tent pack in history. 

Just stopped for breakfast.... Hope to bring you the little people later.  

Thursday 24 July 2014

Fish stew

The day panned out as fantastic and the sun finally decided to show its face.
 I tried taking off my rain jacket but alas I stopped 10 minutes later to out it back on. Too cold my friends. 

As I journey further west I have to cross a glacial valley where the lava once flowed I guess.  I'm afraid the Tectonic plate movement was lost on me in Geography, I was too busy trying to colour in the diagrams nicely.
But you don't have to be a geographer to see how the mountains have just thrust up through the land. It must have been a massive event! I can' see how it could have been done quietly.  

So after a fair few hours of wonderful pedaling I decide on yet another hot tub stop. This one boasted a hotel. Hotel Elborg. Now when I arrive I am slightly put off by the number of horse boxes in the car park and am slightly reminded of a certain primary school playground. But the hot water was bubbling so I pressed on into what can only be described as Abigail's Other Party.  

I decided to eat in the resteraunt as I needed proper food. Fish Stew
 (Fish pic no 2) it was amazing. I even went up for seconds.  But you know those terribly sad dramas where the woman with grey hair with the book is sitting amidst the party she hasn't been invited to? That's me.   
So I try to blend in and not look gauche.. Which is terribly hard when everyone else is an Amazonian Horse Woman.  But the thought of that cod supper and the promise if two cups of Earl Grey is enough to strengthen the weakest of souls.  It was worth it, the best fish stew going.

The chef is charming too. 

So well fed and it's off to bed. A long trek tomorrow to the land of Trolls.

You know Nothing John Snow, you know nothing!!

And just to show we really are here



Day 3 on the road

So I have been asked for more pictures as it appears we all have very little idea of what Iceland look like.  So here we have a couple from my wet ride this morning.  I will try to post more as I go.  

Just to add the big posts are written at the end of the day and posted next morning so they appear a bit out of sync. But enjoy! Thank you all for following!