My little friend

This morning I had so many plans about what I would be doing but I did not think for one moment I'd be doing this on my last day in Budapest.  

If you don't like sad stories please don't read on. Stop where you were and just let my trip end in the curtain of water.  

When I turned in for bed last night I reached for Wistful for company.  But she was not there.  I sat up in panic and rummaged through rucksack, bag and tent. I went out in the night, and flip flopped back to the bustop to check if she had fallen on my way up the hill. But I went to sleep without my bear.  

Now many may say, ahhh that's daft... tis only a bear! But if I can just say Wistful has been with me on all my wanderings  and has been as vital a part of this blog as I.  Today I will go in search. 

Up very, very early... camp down, bike packed, breakfasted and out and it was only 8.30.  I cycled back into Budapest. I knew where I had been, what stops I had made and where I may have left my bear.  

I have searched the bins in Parliment square and accosted the street cleaners. I have sat in a resteraunt whilst the manager has looked at CCTV.  I have sat outside the Turkish baths and waited for the change of staff so as to ask... Have you seen my bear. I even have a piece of paper with the words written in Hungarian (thank you kind camp lady) so as I can put forward my plight to those who don't understand my language. And finally I have sat at the bus terminal and I have watched and asked every bus driver on the 291 service... Do you know my bear.  

I have no happy ending for you here. I have no grand reunion.  I have tears in my eyes and a hole in my heart for my lost travelling companion. 

I have asked Saint Anthony for help but even the Saint of lost things has no answer.  I am bereft as I sit on the plane taking off knowing my bear is somewhere  down below in Budapest.    I can only pray that my bear is about to go out on her own journey and to continue to wander.  I hope she has a hand to hold when she's lonely and I can ony trust in the Universe that this was meant to be. 

Ahhhhhh Wistful.  You have been such a good friend and I'm going to miss you.  

I hope to see you all again next year and forgive the sad ending to what had been one of the most remarkable trips of my life.  I had no intention that I would be travelling by water and flowing back to source but as I think about it... What else was it going to be.  

Crossing the road... if you should see a little bear with a jingle jangle necklace crossing the road in front of you, stop and wave and say "Hallo" to Wistful from me.  

Sheila x

So this is Budapest!

Arriving very ate last night meant I had the luxury of a lie in and a relaxed breakfast. The cunning plan was to have a look around Budapest and be a tourist rather than a journeyman.  

But just let me pause a moment to show you where I am sleeping.  I jested to Charlie that I was I aria least siding.  What I hadn't known at the time (it being dark and late) I was indeed in a railway siding. Well trams actually. 

I decided to make full use of this opportunity and I would leave my bike at the campsite safely tucked away in my tent. This would allow Wistful and I the opportunity to simply wander and explore.  Quick bus ride into town and the day was set.  I jumped off the bus on the very beautiful Queen Elizabeth bridge so as to take the "I have arrived" picture. We look as we felt, joyful. 

This is going to be a bit if a whistle stop tour but bear with me as there are a few details of very poignant interest. The first major sight were the Parliment buildings. No coincidence that they look like a very baroque styling of out the ones in London.  In fact there is an awful lot baroque about this city.  

As I wandered around 'Pest' (oh? did you know it's two cities? Budda and Pest.  Divided by the Danube but conjoined by name 'Budapest') I was struck by the obvious beauty and the gentle pace of life in the centre.  Everyone seemed to have time for each other and as a solo traveller I took great delight in dispensing with selfie sticks and taking duo pictures of lovers in the city. I think you know what I mean.  It's a small gift to anyone and I applaude it's use.  

St Stephens Basilica was just amazing.  It was a fine piece of Gothic art and very ornate and gold.  The picture shows the outside but inside was breathtaking.  As I sat in a PEW (sorry about the pee in my last church post) I gazed up at the ceiling and began to question.  Uh oh... never a good sign.  So did the Catholic Church adopt a grand style of decoration to entertain the congregation or was it the desire to set about creating a realm far grander, so high, so out of reach of common man that it illustrated the divine power of god? Jus a simple musing, one of many I might add. None the less I appreciate the workmanship and the imagery.  The paintings of Christ were remarkable.  But it had to be said it was my least favourite church compared to Vienna and Passau.  

But the dome needed to be climbed.  My legs cried "Nooooooo".  "But think of the blog" I said in return as I set out on the 362 steps. It was worth it.  I loved the fact the storm was brewing in the distance.  

I then decided to simply wander and came across various monuments.  At first I thought they were a celebration and to be applauded but I'd like to tell you about this one.  When I saw it I was struck by the angel and I felt the eagle looked very menacing, like an alien, a predator about to strike.  

Directly confronting this monument was one of another kind. This one involved various momentous and pictures attached to barbed wire.  In closer inspection I find it is keepsakes and photos of Jews who were persecuted and killed in the gas chambers.   Apparently there is a huge movement by those who remember to have the angel eagle monument torn down. It had been erected surreptitiously in the dead of night and was so against the knowledge or wishes of the people of Hungary. It was erected to commemorate the German occupation of Hungary on March 19 1944.  Subsequently after much complaint the wording was changed to a more 'PC'commemoration of the victims but alas the original meaning is still what everyone seesand feels despite the politically correct amendments. 

 

I began to feel a different current running through this town and it wasn't just the river.  When I happened across a guided tour in front if another monument the crowd were asking the guide if he would stand in front of it so as to have his picture taken.  "Why would I stand in front of a monument to communist repression? I'd rather have my picture taken in front of a tree". True words. 

Now it's time for my confession.  As a teenager I used to take great delight in taunting my grandfather about how I was going to be a communist. It used to drive home nuts and he would go red in the face and shout at me that I knew nothing of what it meant... He had after all fought in the war. I think after my visit to Budapest I have begun to Grandpa and I am truly sorry for the pain it must have caused you. I was but a rebelling teenager with idealism buried in communism.  But in subsequent years I have always admired the design behind the propaganda material.  I still have that passion for Russian constructivism and probably will retain it.  But I think perhaps naively.  I will make it my business to just do some research into Hungary and it's part in the genocide of many thousands of Jews, gypsies, gays and immigrants.  To round off this sober text I want to just show you the monument to those who perished.  The following picture shows iron sculptured shoes depicting those from all walks of life who were murdered. They stand on the walkway facing the Danube.  A chilling but beautiful image. 

So not all is light being a tourist.  I'm so very glad I managed to see these sights. 

My bones were now weary and my feet sore from walking many many miles.  I made my way to one of the ancient Turkish baths and spent the next hour or so bathing the aches and pains of this trip away.  I have a lot to think about and plenty of material to keep me musing for quite some time. This has been a mammoth journey from coast to canal to river to source.  Tonight I shall seep well.

Crossing the road... A magnificent water fountain.  In order to cross the road you had to have faith that the curtain if water would stop and allow you to pass. I had the faith.  What an image.  

Rain glorious rain

There is little to say about today's planned ride as it was to be a day of mile covering. But I woke to horrendous rain pelting down on my tent. Note to self: Fabshield weather proofing really works a treat.   Might as well turn over then and get some more sleep.   Having done this for another half hour or so,  I decided enough was enough as I had planned on getting to Budapest today.  So get up Sheila! 

The weather gods really do deserve a Christmas card from me. No sooner had I assembled my kit and dried my tent in the dining shelter (packing a wet tent is a pain and a no no if you can help it) than the rain eased and I stepped out into the morning to a fresh start.  

It was another of those "let's change the route" days. I had concluded that following the Danube through Hungary was not 'remarkable' enough to make me want to cycle on their cycle paths.  They are definatley set up for 26" wheels and chunky tyres.  So I thought I would hook up with the Eurovelo 6 and follow that.  Great plan. 

However the  Eurovelo is work in progress. When it's not realised, the route can take you off down small unpaved paths.  This did happen but remember it had been torrential all night and morning so those lanes were a no no as they were no better than quagmires.   Maybe I'd have been better off to keep my cyclocross tyres on but given the ammount of times I would have benefited it wasn't what I wanted to do. 

So I set off with my "to hell with the plan" attitude, turned my nose toward Budapest and just winged it.  Well not quite as I had an idea where I needed to go.  Instead of going along and down I was aiming for the Hypotenuse of the triangle.  This worked well until I got to the N1.  The sign in front of me was not messing. In short it was a big red triangle with a horse, a tractor and a bike on it. I took that as a personal message  "You can NOT go on this road Sheila" they must have been forwarded my description from my lovely Gendarmes in Calais.  

Back to Garmin navigation then. I asked it to avoid busy roads, toll roads and unpaved paths.  It tried to get me on the N1 but I was wise to it's little pranks. All was good but light was fading and my lights were only good for another half hour.  

It never fails to amaze me the power of trust and when you are on a pilgrimage all that you need on your journey will be provided.  I needed help.  It turned up just around the corner. The lady in the kebab shop did not speak English. But with some strange non verbal communication I managed to get her to make me a cup of Earl Grey tea and let me charge my lights whilst she closed shop.  The best cup of tea I have had this trip.  I thanked her whole heartedly and she understood my thanks.  As I stepped out into the night I looked up and thanked the Universe once again.

The next hour was spent pedalling hard to get to Budapest before my part charged lights faded once more.  I stopped to sort a slight bag loose problem and thought maybe I will just check the campsites. I was 5km out of Budapest and unsure where I was going to sleep.  I asked Garmin to find me a campsite and would you believe it there was one 490m away.  Half an hour later my tent was pitched and I was standing in the shower room eying up the taps.  All I wanted was a really hot shower as I had been without for the last three days.  Not so much Sweaty Betty more like Stinky She. (Wild-ish camping and cold showers) My hopes were not high.  I turned the tap and waited... and waited...  and .... Hot, lovely hot, lots of hot, hot hot hot...water. I swear I'm cleaner now than when I set out.  

Refreshed it was time to cosy down into my sleeping bag and enjoy the idea off sightseeing in Budapest. 

I didn't manage to take many pictures today for the blog but this shows the sky and view from the top of the hills before the descent towards Budapest. 

Crossing the road. It has to be the snails.  As it had rained the roads were louring snails of all description out onto the tarmac so that they could do a bit of wet bathing before the sun came out.  I have to confess I didn't wait to see them cross the road completely but I can assure you that none were harmed by speedy bike tyres.  That took some doing!

I won't post my "I have arrived" post until I reach the centre of Budapest tomorrow. 

But I have passed the city sign 😃

A border crossing or two or three...

I'd like to introduce you to my wide eyed teenager.  We bumped into each other this morning and I can now tell you her name is Simona and she will only be a teenager for another month or so.  Simona is heading back after the Geo Cache awards to Bratislava where she lives and studies.  She gave up her morning to take me on a very special tour and for that I thank her.  

We cycled along exchanging information about our different cultures and life in Slovakia.  She was horrified by my experience of entering Bratislava (which is the capital by the way) via the concrete bridge.  Not the best introduction to the town or country and I was equally taken aback that the English drinking habits were not considered a problem and that there were quite a lot of nationalities visiting the place.  I liked her frank and open attitude.  

Simona was taking me to a place just down the way where the borders of Austria Slovakia and Hungary converge.  It was quite something.  Very peaceful but slightly 'isolated' which I guess it would be if no man owned it.  Various statues and stone structures marked the spot.  A bit like Stonehenge without the stones.  I will have to check but I bet it's close too where lay lines cross! 

After scrambling over fields and railway tracks to get back to our route I had to surpress a giggle as it did feel like we were trying to enter the country by the back door.   I was sad to say goodbye to Simona and again just to thank her for the time she took to help me see her country through her eyes.  Much the best way to dispel preconceived notions. 

The rest of the day was hard.  The heat was way over 30 and as Hungary (ooops crossed a border again!) has very gravelly bike paths I began to navigate my way the old fashioned way with maps and small roads. Note to  self.  When exploring Eastern Europe make sure you have the maps on your Garmin.

At one point I just gave up and sat down in the shade of this beautiful church.  Tomato and Salami sandwiches just taste so good out here.  

I have been converted by both countries. They are so peaceful and the care that is bestowed on each village is obvious by the well kept communal gardens. Both countries are very, very pretty.   This was confirmed when I entered the city of Gayor.  It is breathtaking and such an eclectic mix of old and new.   I happily wandered through the streets looking at the buildings and pausing to watch the cheery antics of the children in the fountains.  

No 'drinking' streets to be found here.  A quick indulge of a bananna split (what's with me eating all this ice cream!) and off I set in search of a campsite. The first was closed and the second idyllic.  I settle in to the sound of wind in the trees, owls hooting and distant dogs barking.  Bliss. 

Crossing the road; now I'm cheating slightly today because this is a sort of crossing and I didn't think a big hairy caterpillar would do.  This morning I woke to the tittle tattling of field mice as the tried to cross beneath me.  They seemed to get very annoyed when they kept bumping into my sleeping mat and then having to follow the count our round to the other side where the cookies should be kept. I can confirm that they were mice because I sat up to make sure mr hedgehog was not out for a rummage. 

Just for info..

As requested by Vinn, here we have my lovely bike in action so to speak.  It is rigged in very much the same way as I rigged for Iceland.  The only modifications were a new papoose that has less depth so as to fit the seat post better and I am running 28mm Continental 4-season tyres rather than the 35mm Continental cyclocross. 

Now as I'm here I might as well tell you what's on board.  I know it very well by now an it will help to remind me next time I pack. 

Starting with the back papoose:

Sleeping bag PHD lightweight two season a fantastic purchase. 

Spare set if cycle shorts, shirt and socks

Wet weather gear... Castelli Furba jacket, Rapha lightweight rain cape, gilet, winter gloves and leg/arm warmers and sealskin over socks. 

Casual wear, one pair crag hopper trousers, two t shirts

Sleeping shorts and top. 

Front roll:

Terra Nova Cometition 1 woman tent

Foot print

Thermarest sleeping mat (small)

MSR pocket rocket stove

Trianga cookpot for one

Titanium spork 

Life adventure towel. 

Front flap bag:

Used for food bought on the go. 

Frame bag:

First aid kit and homeopathic remedies

Two inner tubes

Repair kit and Duck tape

Spokes front and rear 

Gear and brake cable spares, quick links, multi tool. 

Lights front and back

Pump 

Co2 gas x3 and adapter 

Wash kit (including mascara and a lipstick, my two luxury items)

Rucksack(not shown)

"Wistful" my teddy bear travelling companion on all trips.  

Water bladder up to 2l capacity (but I usually carry 1 and refil as needed. )

Kindle fIre

Pebble charge bank

Adapters and leads

Passport and tickets

Peaked cap

Sunglasses 

Reading glasses

Muscle balm Champis cream and sun cream. 

Flip flops 

Phew! That's an exhausting list!  Next time I would add a belt for my trousers and a lightweight pair of casual shorts. 

A rude awakening

Now it's really hard to write a blog with integrity and yet not offend anyone.  So I've been mulling this one over on how best to comment without doing so and decided to just say it like it is.  

I have been happily mooching along the Danou through Germany and Austria and today I entered Slovakia.  Only the tip of it but none the less Slovakia, the border was obvious. The militaryesque huts, barriers and the defined cycle way were alarming after the Sound of Music life I had been cycling.  It felt like I had been dropped into a post apocalyptic set from a movie. We (there was a troop of tourists travelling this way) entered via a large concrete bridge that was coloured with multi layers of grafetti. The signs were sporadic and I lost my way a couple of times. I lost the troop and headed along the river wishing I had circumnavigated the city of Bratislava.  But I had wanted to see the town as I have no experience of this country and it's people. I persevered and headed into the city.  I'm pleased I did. 

The town was alive with people, colour, folk art markets and music.  It was a bit of an overload to be honest as I wasn't used to the crowds.  But two ice creams ( from different stalls ) later and I was chilled.  Hahaha.  

As I wandered through the lace market and the wooden carving stalls I began to hear a familiar chant.  "Yeahhhh eahhhh Baby!!" In healthy Northern English accents. As I turned the corner it was as if someone had whisked me to Ibiza. I was getting quite dizzy with all this tele transportation.   So I have decided I am a complete snob.  It was just after lunch and the bars were already filling with the loud English revellers getting ready for another 'filling'. It made me want to cry.  How can we as a culture descend en masse into such a traditional town and pretty much just trash it? Do we think it's ok? On what level is it ok.....  I know we are helping bring money into the town but seriously? Rant over.   Time to leave and find a campsite.  

But before I leave Bratislava be open to it. It has a warmth of heart and a sense of joy that defies the grey concrete entry.  The buildings are worth looking up for and the music is everywhere. Traditional dancing in the main square says it all. It is the soul if the city and hopefully we won't trash that.  

I headed off back onto the river path and carried on.  The landscape is pretty scorched and dry at this time if year and it is fabulously warm.  The Slovakians love to rollerblade. Every where I looked they were cruising along, all ages and all styles.  If the English would take a walk, the Slovakians seem to take a blade and just go for it and enjoy.  I actually passed one woman who was practically jiving on her blades in her own world listening to her music.  It was good to see.  

Now the campsite.  Today is a day you couldn't make up.  I find my campsite is based on an island in the middle of the river.  (Thank goodness I have bought a mosquito repelling band) You get to it via a floating pontoon bridge. But that's not the wierd bit. I find that I am camping behind the main stage at the biggest Geo Caching event in Slovakia.  "The biggest ever" said the wide eyed teenager I bumped into on my way to the showers.  I passed muster in that I know what Geo Caching is, but I failed because I didn't accord it with the Kudos that it obviously deserves. Tonight apparently is the big awards ceremony... 

So it is going to be a loud evening. The plus point is, the campsite is 6 euros and I had a feast of a meal of chicken soup, deep fried cheese with chips and a piece of chocolate torte for. 7 euros.  I can put up with Mustang Sallie for that for sure. 

Crossing the road, (especially for Sam!) a drone. No kidding. As if selfie sticks are not enough, being buzzed by a passing drone as the happy owners fly it across and up into the sky then look up and wave at it is just going a bit too far.  Told you I was a snob! 

Ahhhhh..... Vienna

(I have added pictures of Vienna throughout the text as I have so many to share)

A very early start today, this must be a record.   I left the camping site at 8 am and by the time my stomach had realised breakfast was missing I was 30km further down the river.   

The travelling was fresh and sunny and the paths were again quiet.  My plan today was to get to Vienna in time to have a look around.  I also planned to stop at the camping site before the city so that I might pitch my tent and cycle unencubered into the city. 

As the sun climbed I was making goo time so decided to stop and pick up provisions on the way.  T bags! The Spar shop was a welcome sight.  The strange thing is that all I have been craving this trip is yoghurt and fruit.  I bought two massive pears and an apple from a stall on the side of the road and mastered the art if chomping a juicy oeat what moving. I haven't tried the youghiry that way yet. But let's face it flies on the spoon would put you off.

Anyway, I came out of the shop and sat down to eat a large pot of fruit yoghurt and to put the rest of my supplies away.  The box of tea was way too big and I only really needed ten bags to keep me going at most. As I sat sunning myself contemplating life, a little old lady hobbled her walking frame over to the bench and made to sit next to me.  I glanced at her basket of food and noted a basic selection if ketchup and the like.  As she sat down she began to chat to me in Austrian and whilst I answered her back in English she shrugged and continued to chat.  We spent five minutes or so not chat chatting and then I thought ahahah! I picked up my box of tea and asked if she would like them...  Her little wizened fingers pecked into the box to remove one tea bag..... Noooo said I handing her the box.  She looked so pleased and immeadiatley squirrelled them under her supplies. We then sat in the sun and discussed my trip.  She understood everything with ought hearing a word.  A wonderful start to the day.  

The next surprise along the way was my mysterious white chalk guardian.  Today I was treated to the word 'look'  and then five minutes later 'listen'. I did as I was told.  In five more minutes the comment 'it's beautiful isn't it' I laughed and as if by magic with perfect timing came the picture of the smiley face in bright white chalk.  

Further down the road I had a gift of a peloton of strapping chaps out for a ride. Well I wasn't going to miss this one! So I hopped on the back wheel if the last rider who gave me the thumbs up. "All is good" I shouted. He nodded.  I spent the next half hour riding the draught and realising how much easier it is in a group.  At difficult junctions they sort of watched for me but didn't slow or wait, not that they needed to, my legs were feeling good.  When my junction came and my time for lunch I waved to them all, thanke them for the pull and turned off.  Whoever you were chaps, many thanks and I hope your weekend is a good one. 

I arrived at my campsite just as the heavens opened but as a practiced tent pitcher it was up in a flash and not wet at all.  Now the camp site was right next to the train station so rather than cycle into Vienna I hopped on a train and was there in twenty minutes.  

I have decided that Vienna is one if the most beautiful and intriguing cities going.  Now I was seeing this city at dusk and I didn't have time to visit any if the numerous museums or art galleries.  I did however get to St Stephens Cathedral. 

Now I didn't take any pictures inside because to be honest it was so amazing that no picture would do it justice. But of I described the interior it would be built in the style of Gieger, the inspiration behind the design for Aliens.  Yes! It really was that dark, gothic and totally fascinating combination of macabre and sacred.  Even the stained glass windows were of muted tones.  It was a very special place.  I quietly watched the numerous people who came to pray and to light a candle. It struck me that a building needs to be this big and this powerful to be able to cope with the burden of all the troubles souls who come to share and commune. I left Sy Syephens feeling lighter and at peace.  

The pictures I am adding here are not brilliant but I hope they give a time if what I saw tonight.  My intention yet again is to return with Charlie so that we can both unravel the mysteries behind this city. 

Crossing the road? Awwww I was treated today to the dash of Mr stoat.  Red fur with a yellow flash on his chest he was gone before he'd even arrived.  

Linz to Melk

Sleep wasn't easy last night.   I woke with a start and a pounding heart and all senses were on high alert.  It took me a mo to settle and work out where I was.  Usually this happens when there is 'something' wandering in the night but perhaps it was just a damn big apple falling.  Sleep was disturbed and I woke somewhat unrefreshed and headed out.

Linz was on my path so again I decided to stop over and see what the town was like.  At first it was with disappointment as many of our usual high street names were right in front of me. But if you stop and simply look at the buildings rather than their tenants you are treated to some fine architecture and a rich palette of colours ranging from salmon pink to ochre and olive greens. But the hue is most definatley on the pastel sugar range rather than the strong English Suffolk 

Once again I sought out the cathedral and was astonished at the difference to yesterday's cathedral in Passau.  It was light and dark.... Chalk and cheese. 

Today I was treated to a very dark somber palette broken only by the stained glass that filtered rainbows into the building.  It was by no means off putting just different and the play of shafts of light on the vaulted ceilings was fab.

O 

After the cathedral I discovered a side street with another church, the Alter dome, nestled unassuming between it's neighbour buildings.  This smaller church was similar to Passau and had much lightness around it. As I sat in a pee quietly contemplating music suddenly started up.  There was to be a concert this weekend and I had the good fortune to be listening to a rehearsal.  It was an enchanting moment.  

But time stands still for no one and I had some miles io cover.  I may have only been in Linz an hour or so but I knew enough to know that you could probably get quite happily lost In this secretive city.  Every doorway seemed to beckon you through into courtyards of lush planting a or hidden antique shops.  What I will say about the town is the very dense structure of streets and buildings that are punctuated by the occasional church or cathedral spyre. 

I had in mind getting up Krems by tonight so that I had a very short ride into Viennna the next day. But it seemed that today was not quite on schedule as I stopped just east of Melk.   

There was no other reason than the light beginning to fade and the desire to put up my tent in daylight. 

This trip is beginning to alter a lot of old habits for me.   I have only had one cup of tea today (Outrageous) and I am in bed by 11 most nights.  (Unheard of). I could become used up both of these changes but let's not be too rash. 

Crossing the road? Sadly it was flurries of autumnal leaves.  This is no lost image on me, not only as the season is changing but I am also at the fall of my journey.  Gulp! Tomorrow's Friday and I had no idea.  Better get a wriggle on!  

Note to self... Don't forget to top up on air in the tyres.uhh  After all a pressure of 65psi may be good for the bottom on gravel roads but my goodness just feel the speed when They are pumped back up to 90.psi 

Passing through Passau

Having decided to rest easy this morning I broke camp about 12 and set off to Passau.  I had a 70 mile ride ahead of me but I thought that as my route passed through the town I would take a moment.

The Cathedral was worth stopping for so parking my bike outside (locked!) I went in.  What really gets me is that I can just walk in to thi
s stunning interior and sit and take a breath.  I can wander down to the front and look at all the beautiful paintings on the walls and ceilings.  If I should choose I can light a candle and add a name to the prayer book.  I can do all this and it doesn't cost me a bean.  If I go to St Paul's Cathedral it will cost me an off putting sum of money to wander along carefully roped walkways. Hmmmm something's very wrong in so many ways.  Ho hum!

Back on the road and i am following the Donau all the way to Lins.  I thought it would be busy with tourists but I seemed to have streatch after streatch all to myself. The road surfaces were good and the sun was warm.  Perfect. 

I was in so much of a daydream that when the road turned left I followed without question.  When the road started to go up slightly I thought ok here I am, a hill!  Well that's alright. When the road started to head skywards at an alarming degree I began to wonder.  Ok so maybe it's just until the level bit ahead.  Nope, it kept on going up.   Right! now something is definatley wrong. As I successfully managed to get to the first bend I had to stop to get my breath. That was hard!   I thought maybe it would have levelled but I could see this was only the first of what could be several hairpins. The monkey in my brain was having another attempt at getting me to go off piste and get lost.  But being wise to this happening and resisting it's chatter, I pulled out my maps and had a look.  Ahahhhhaaaaa.  So this way was what some would call more than undulating, more like crazy and the way I wanted was 2km back. I had missed the sign.  

It was with great delight that I descended this humongous incline to get back on track. 

The journey for the remainder if the day was just a peaceful and gentle ride along the river bank.  I was entertained by the swans and river birds and when I did stop to rest my legs, there was not a sound to be heard.  Fantastic.  I had my own personal river! 

My campsite tonight is in a farmyard on lush green clover. The only noise to be heard that could be called disturbing is the occasional plop of an apple falling out of the tree. I think I should sleep well tonight. 

Crossing the road? Well this is an interesting one for you.  On the water today was a small boat with a young couple aboard. They were somewhat stranded and were not quite sure how to navigate away from the shore. But they were laughing and having fun.  I couldn't help but wave and give a big "hallo!" To which I got a favourable wave and hallo back.  It's good to laugh I thought. But that's not really crossing the road is it. Just as I was pondering if I could use the sighting fairly, I turned around the corner and there right across the road in white chalk... "Go With The Flow".  I so laughed I could hardly pedal.  I wondered if perhaps my boating couple should see this.    But just to add I am in Austria now and this was written in English.  As it would happen I had two more similar sightings further down the road. "Keep on going". And "You are almost home".  I can't help but feel amused at how a random message meant for another could be so cheerful to those that follow.