Snaefellsjokkull

I won't attempt to pronounce this one but just to say that I am at the centre point of my journey.  This is my first eerie glimpse of this mountain. 

Apparently this is where all the lay lines converge from around the globe.  There are other such places, Glastonbury etc but this one appears to be special.  

It certainly lives up to its brooding nature and I get a vague uneasy feeling as I draw close.  Not a surprise that I find out that Tolkien was fascinated by the stories found in the Icelandic Sagas. 

Did you know that the Icelandic Sagas were the first books ever written in native tongue telling a story rather than verse? They date back to 12th century. 

The statue is a memorial to a young man who died of exposure on the mountain pass over to the other side of the island in 1929.  It pays homage to the spirit of Bardur who mythically gave his life by jumping into the crater and was turned into the great spirit who watches over the area.  

  

Can you see any elves? I must admit when your cycling through these lava fields you do get the sense of being watched! And my bike started to make squeaking noises... So I asked the elves to stop messing with me bike... Sorted :-)

Jukes Verne plays an important part here too.  Apparently he used the glacier at the top for his background to Journey to The Centre of The World.  

So I find the campsite and settle in. The cliffs to the shore a fee hundred meters away are home to many birds and the noise is amazing. They don't go to sleep either it seems.  I'm really looking forward to seeing a puffin.  But that's later on my journey. I hope!

Land of the little people

I woke this morning to torrential rain. Not the sort you would want to cycle in.  However I had a strong feeling that I wanted to get out of the campsite as another night would have been a killer. 

So I began to pack up my tent from the inside out.  I am driven by the promise of a cave of little people and the land of elves.  Why stay it's just a bit of water right? Ok a lot of water!

Tent packed inside so all I have to do is get out and pack the actual tent.  I'm clad in total water riding gear (thank you Sarah, the leg warmers are amazing :-) ). I poke my head out of the door and the rain stops. I kid you not!  It just stops. 

A quick thanks to the Universe and off I go, fastest tent pack in history. 

Just stopped for breakfast.... Hope to bring you the little people later.  

Fish stew

The day panned out as fantastic and the sun finally decided to show its face.

 I tried taking off my rain jacket but alas I stopped 10 minutes later to out it back on. Too cold my friends. 

As I journey further west I have to cross a glacial valley where the lava once flowed I guess.  I'm afraid the Tectonic plate movement was lost on me in Geography, I was too busy trying to colour in the diagrams nicely.

But you don't have to be a geographer to see how the mountains have just thrust up through the land. It must have been a massive event! I can' see how it could have been done quietly.  

So after a fair few hours of wonderful pedaling I decide on yet another hot tub stop. This one boasted a hotel. Hotel Elborg. Now when I arrive I am slightly put off by the number of horse boxes in the car park and am slightly reminded of a certain primary school playground. But the hot water was bubbling so I pressed on into what can only be described as Abigail's Other Party.  

I decided to eat in the resteraunt as I needed proper food. Fish Stew

 (Fish pic no 2) it was amazing. I even went up for seconds.  But you know those terribly sad dramas where the woman with grey hair with the book is sitting amidst the party she hasn't been invited to? That's me.   

So I try to blend in and not look gauche.. Which is terribly hard when everyone else is an Amazonian Horse Woman.  But the thought of that cod supper and the promise if two cups of Earl Grey is enough to strengthen the weakest of souls.  It was worth it, the best fish stew going.

The chef is charming too. 

So well fed and it's off to bed. A long trek tomorrow to the land of Trolls.

You know Nothing John Snow, you know nothing!!

And just to show we really are here

Day 3 on the road

So I have been asked for more pictures as it appears we all have very little idea of what Iceland look like.  So here we have a couple from my wet ride this morning.  I will try to post more as I go.  

Just to add the big posts are written at the end of the day and posted next morning so they appear a bit out of sync. But enjoy! Thank you all for following! 

When the wind blows

It really blows.  Now I had read about this in the guide books too. But being a Cumbrian lass I wasn't to bothered about the odd gust.  Well there's nothing odd about Icelandic gusts, they come straight down off the mountains and swirl right over and through you.  I actually had to stop my bike twice to regain balance. There was one point I was laughing because I was leaning 45degrees into the wind to hold myself up. At least I was laughing!

All was quickly forgotten when I pulled up to my campsite chosen because it had a hot tub. After half an hour gently poached at 39degrees I was a happy bunny. (No boiler jokes please!)

The landscape is so utterly amazing. It is vast huge and very beautiful.  It reminds me of Cumbrian moorland set to a backdrop of oceans and lakes. There are Curlew and Plovers too.  So I am at home here it has to be said.  

As with all things blog like and photo like my offerings don't really do it justice but I'd like to think you get the idea of just how awesome the space is. The light is very odd too. I actually climbed out of my tent last night at 12 and it was still light. I describe it as eclipse like. Sort of grey! Odd.

So last night I was relieved I had re proofed the tent. Tonight I am equally pleased I bought sturdy tent pegs. I hope they work! 

And for fun. Fish photo no 1 :-)

More news tomorrow. 

Day 1 The Info

This is the practical I came I saw I learnt bit.  

Flying in to Rekjavik is great. 

Fly bus has the capacity to hold all your stuff plus a big Bike Box and they smile when you load it on. 

You have to get off at the BSI bus station as they then out you in smaller buses. I stopped here. 

BSI NOLONGER PROVIDE BIKE BOX STORAGE and believe me they don't smile!

Taxi to Rekjavik s camp site (2500 kr) 

The camp site is open 24hrs and offers hostel sleeping too 

They will store your box for 600kr a week 

Amazing first nights stay. 

Wet and windy. But snug as a bug!

Phew that was close

Well you can't believe everything the guidebooks say. Apparently the bus station no longer has left luggage for bike boxes it had a strict no policy beginning summer 2014. I pleaded and cajoled but they were having none if it.   A good friend asked me yesterday if I thought through all the what ifs! I do but this one had me stumped.  So I have a propr bike box and large bag to sort out.  They must of thought I was potty as I stood in the middle of the bus station hands on hips staring up into space looking for inspiration.  It lasted at least ten minutes. Sorted! Taxi to camp site and then rethink.   Camp site offers bike box storage. I am so happy that the meal of super noodles was a banquet. So early night tonight and then I shall explore.  

Where there's a will there's a way...  The landscape is amazing.  I think I have landed on the moon. 

And for all you intrepid down hill cyclists I think my pilot was an Alps master... I could almost feel his knee out and leg planted as he banked hard into landing! Scary.

Oh My.

So here I am sat at Gatwick. The nerves are on! Will my bike travel ok, have I packed everything, did I feed the cat?..... All those random crazy making thoughts to get in the way of just being plain in the moment.  The bike looks good and Wistful is ready too !

Think I'll have an early night to night. Oh yes what time do the lights go out in Iceland? Glad I took a leaf out of my daughters handbook for survival 

Here I go again.....

I keep being asked the question, have you mapped your trip to Iceland? and what's the plan?  Both very good questions that I simply haven't been able to answer. The truth is the very act of not planning is I believe what Iceland is all about.  You can't plan distances or  times simply because you have to respect the weather and go with the flow....  The wind flow that is.  Apparently days can be lost due to headwinds that make a 20km ride last a day.  So with this in mind, I am indeed relaxed about my itinerary.

The planning has involved a pen, a map and a simple lonely planet guide book. I have drawn a red line in a vague circle outlining the sort of area I'd like to ride through. Whilst  I have an idea of where I'm heading I am so not sure of what I will find when I get there.

I love it when a non plan comes together!
( P:S The maps red line is not my red line.... Phew!)

And finally

There are just a few things left to say but mainly it's to give thanks.

I want to thank all my friends for their belief in me

I want to bless my mum and dad for their creation of me

I want to thank the eternal spirit of Sirius for protecting me 

I want to thank my children Harriet and Hugo for their sharing of me

I have a huge heartfelt thanks to my wonderful husband Charlie for his unwavering support and love for me

But last and most if all I want to thank God for having whispered to me those inspiring words "But you could cycle it!"

Buena Camino - Bon Chemin. 

Sheila Woollam 19/9/2013

The Arrival

So after an emotional moment in front of Compostela I was able to sit in the sunshine for an hour and marvel at the pilgrims.  The arrival for all is a moment that will stay with me as a cherished memory.  I chose a quiet route into town along the Camino path finishing my journey in quiet contemplation and apprehension. 

This is a beautiful city and I haven't had much time to explore but even so I can appreciate the depth of history behind this place.  In my Pilgrims guide it asks you to be mindful of all those who have passed before and link into that sense of history. That I can appreciate. 

By the way it's a full moon today/tonight so I have a feeling all that was meant to be was.  So Pamplona? I forgive you for being such a hard city to get out of. 

So I want to just share with you a few pictures of Santiago and hope it will leave you with the thought of visiting. 

 

This I the man! Saint Jack, one of The twelve apostles. 

No picture can do justice to the inside and had I been here on Friday I would have witnesses the incense ball being swung.

My final stamp on my Pilgrims passport. 

The rest of the day involved sorting out my bike transport. The mystery way of the Camino continues as I find the shop that will box up my bike for me and also give me a lift back to camp and provide me with a taxi service in the morning and all for 15 euros.  The man in bike line was a star.  

I bumped into many familiar faces from along my way but sadly it would appear that either I was a very effective break away cyclist or my peloton had dropped me :-) but all those faces had the same beaming smile and the camaraderie from all was amazing.  

I did it ! 

Buen Camino

I have arrived. 

 I am in bits and so proud. All you need is the desire and the spirit and all things can be achieved . On foot on bike or even on horse.  I'm so full of joy it's hard to explain so I shall leave you with this picture.  Buen Camino and Bon Chemin.  

Day 10. I'm going to give it a go.

After yesterday's slog I was not looking forward to what my guidebook said was the hardest day of the route.  It wasn't far wrong.  

The push out of Saria involved an up and down route which the book said was akin a hard days ride in the Lake District. Cheers!!  

But I had 130 km to cover to make it to Santiago on schedule.  And you know how we control freaks love a good schedule!

The route still passed by stunning Monasteries and on this occasion I heard the bells being tolled and could see the bell rope being pulled from inside. A strange sight and a reminder that people do in fact reside behind these walls.  This Monastery was outside of Samos just before Saria so a little out of sync. But the images are just so beautiful. The whole village had a great sense of peace and calm about it. 

So up and down the route I went.  I passed many pilgrims on cycles that I seemed to pass before but alas I didn't see the peloton again.  Although I was told they were hoping to arrive the same day as me. 

Here we have a statue of Santiago. ( St Jaques) pointing the way onwards. Had I been able to ride and take a picture I would have loved to show you all one of the cyclist pilgrims hugging the side if the road up and over and sweeping round the bends.  We were all in a line with an odd array of panniers and bikes of all types. Stopped to try to help one cyclist but alas it was a mountain bike and that was just foreign   

But I did manage to take one of the horse pilgrims.  He was the only one I had seen but they seemed very content to amble along.

The roads and paths are now peregrino thick and Aulberge after Aulberge. Cafe after cafe as the provide for the passing weary travellers.  

 I was truly horrified when I stopped for a break and when trying to find the bathroom passed a dormitory at the back of a cafe.  It was horrendous.  About 20 bunks crammed into an airless room.  And people were in there because they needed to find a place to sleep.  Sorry everyone, it may look mad taking a tent but I have never regretted my decision and this only confirmed it for me.  I know as cyclists we are able to whizz off the path to find better accommodation but I'm happy.  I just wish pilgrims were treated with the respect that accords them.  Hey Ho :-(. 

So imagine my delight when I saw this at about 3.00 pm 

I estimated an arrival of 8.00 pm and pushed on.  The road was still brutal as it undulated through eucalyptus forests   

And finally at about 7.30 tonight I passed this stone. 

 I have arrived into the town of Santiago. But my journey is not over.  I found the campsite having cancelled a pre booked Aulberge and set up home.  My thinking is to take a night to rest and to try to get up early in the morning so as to arrive at Compostela de Santiago in early light.  before the tourists. So watch this space my friends for the final images.  How I will feel tomorrow is a mystery but tonight I shall sleep like a bear in a helmet. Awesome 

Day 9. Hard push to Saria

Today, Tuesday was hard.  I had known that I was to climb the 'longest' pass on the pilgrimage but I wasn't expecting it to be that long.  In some ways it was harder than day ones hill because it just kept going and when you thought you had reached the top you turned a bend and there was more.  But in true spirit I pushes onwards upwards and passes many who had given up.   By now I had no sense of the extra weight I was carrying it was just what it was.  

This picture gives you a glimpse of the ascent and the road winding up the hill is where I had come from.  Awesome!

When I finally reached the top I was greated by the sound of a church service and singing going on in the small church at the top. 

It is said that the Holy Grail rests here, but I will need to research that on my return.  As it was I took a place at the back to listen to the French conducted service.  It was a welcome moment 

And so began my descent.  This was no where near as scary as Cuz de Fer and by now I was accustomed to descending with the weight. 

I stopped halfway down to take a picture if this statue.  I had been blessed with beautiful sunshine, but by the look of this pose it appears to be the exception not the rule.

I had decided by 5.00pm that my legs needed an early night. But I still made my 'stage' as I cruised into a beautiful campsite in Saria.  I even managed to sit in the sunshine and rest for a short while. 

I'm getting a dab hand at erecting my tent and home is soon established.  Wistful the bear is also enjoying the comforts of an already made recliner!!  Home sweet home